Lesson 6 How to make decorative pleats


Since ancient times, pleats on clothing have been used for decoration.This is an excellent and easy way to add a sparkle to the overall model silhouette.Pleats become ultra popular from time-to-time and then get out of fashion again.However, all famous fashion designers regularly use pleats when creating their new collections.Depending on the pleating technique, there exist knife pleats, inverted pleats, and box pleats.They can be soft, ironed from the top to the bottom, or pleated.Next, we will describe each pleat type in greater detail.


Knife pleats

Knife pleats are the easiest to create.These pleats are used individually in order to provide movement freedom in a narrow skirt or dress.Also, the skirt can fully or partially consist of knife pleats.

In order to cut a knife pleat for your product, you need to provide an additional 3 pleats widths.Pleat lines are marked out on the inside of the product and then, if necessary, carried to the front of the product by marking stitches.Pleats are folded in the correct direction, basted from the top to the bottom, and ironed out well.Then, pleats can be stitched from the top to the desired length.To keep the pleat from ripping, you need to make the stitching along the arc from the last stitch toward the knife pleats folding line.

Inverted pleats

Inverted pleatsInverted pleats are very popular.They are two pleats folded towards each other.There are two inverted pleat types: connective and stitching.To make two inverted pleatsduring cutting,you must provide 4 widths of a single pleat.Also, you need to mark the pleats check point.

Inverted connective pleat.Inverted connective pleat

To create this type of pleat, it is necessary to mark out 1 pleat width plus 0,5 inch from the inside as allowancefor each of the 2 pleats.Then, you need to baste the pleat details along the length, folding them with the outsides towards each other.Stitch the pleat to the check point and iron the seam.From the inside, stitch a strip of fabric equal to the width of 2 pleats with seam allowances.At the check point, level stitch the inverted pleat with two parallel stitching lines in order to fasten it.Baste the edges.

Inverted stitching pleat.Inverted stitching pleat

Pleat is marked out on the inside, folded, and basted along the length.Stitch the pleat until the check point.Fold and iron, stitch from the inside with two stitching lines at the check point level.

Double box pleats

Double box pleats

Double box pleats are created at the product seam.These pleats look the best on the thin fabrics.To create such a pleat, you need to make additional allowances for half of the pleat depth during the basic skirt detail cutting.You also need to cut out an extra piece the lower middle wedge.This detail has a rectangular shape.The wedge width calculations are based on the internal pleats number.Procedure: hem the skirt and wedge bottoms.Place the pleats on the wedge from the front side, starting from the lower pleats. Iron it well.Then, pin the wedge edge with the pins to the skirt seam, where the wedge will be placed.Stitch all the pleats seams and iron the product.To avoid fabric crumbling, baste all the edges.

Box pleats

Box pleats

Box pleats are the most popular pleats, and look great on clothing.These pleats folds are directed to different sides resembling a box.The design of box pleats is a mirror reflection of inverted pleats.To create a box pleat, you need to mark out the front side of the product, baste it along the whole pleat length, and stitch it until the check point.Stitch it with two parallel seams at 0.5 inch from the center, and iron the pleat.Fasten the pleat from the front with two stitching lines until the check point.

Now you can use any pleats in modeling and sewing.